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Seadweller:
To get your enclosure resonably airtight you just need to put some form of the gasket between driver/enclosure and crossover panel/enclosure. The easiest way would be to buy window weatherstrip self adhesive tape (anything like this ) and use it as the gasket - it would probably take you less then an hour for both loudspeakers.
I also suggest you to try the crossover as it is posted (it was designed for GPA604-II in a 10cuft.) and then go for the adjustments, if necessary.
Now you're cooking... you couldn't be in better hands.:2thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Seadweller
I couldn't agree more...Don has a passion for this that is unending, and I'm truly humbled by his generosity...Quote:
Originally Posted by bfish
Thanks Vuki...You'd have to know me to understand my unwillingness to use weatherstrip... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by vuki
Oh no, I'm a perfectionist, so I'll route a channel in the XO panel and press fit a rubber gasket in place... :)
I'm pretty sure the drivers came with neoprene/rubber gaskets, but I'll have to double check to make sure they're in place...
Thanks again, everyone's input is priceless!!
Seadweller
I had to caulk all the inside joints of my Carmel cabs to get rid of the leaks.
The front baffel board leaked the most because the loose weave grill cloth was wrapped around the board with no provison for sealing.
You could try playing a low freq tone, say 30 Hz, and listen and feel for air leaks around the outside of your cabs.
Don
Ok, I confirmed today that there is in fact a rubber gasket on the woofer, so it's sealed tight...The next step is a modify the removable XO panel and install a rubber gasket in that, then I'll test the remainder of the cabinet...Quote:
Originally Posted by vuki
What is the best material for sealing a boxes' removable rear panel and retaining good rigidity? Thin rubber, neoprene, or?
I am finally about to start my MLTL project this week after a couple years of life getting in the way, and this thread has been quite timely.
Hi- back home and reading up. Lots going on.
What's the status? After sealing the (possible) leaks, are you going to try to build Vuki's crossover?
I can also see that tuning the port is going to make a difference. Are you going to do that?
Hi Panomaniac,Quote:
Originally Posted by Panomaniac
Yep, I'm in the process of sealing the leaks...I confirmed that there's a rubber gasket behind the driver, so it's sealed tight...While the cabinet and XO panel mating surfaces were milled to fit tightly, there's no seal, per se, so I'm going to install a gasket of some sort...I'll probably use some weather strip as an interim solution, as recommended by Vuki, and then follow up with a more "professional" looking solution later...
The parts for Vuki's XO have been ordered, and the gentleman that's been building all of my XO's will be assembling a set for me...Hopefully I'll have them in my hands in the next couple of weeks...
He's actually thinking about incorporating the ability to adjust the XO frequency for experimentation, and we're also putting an L-P in place of the 4R7 resistor for ease of adjustment...Once I find that proper value, I may install a fixed resistor...
I'm really hoping that this really accelerates my progress!! :)
And yes, once everything is in place, I'll begin trimming the port tube in 1" increments to see what effect it has on the bass performance....
That's great. Will be interesting to find out how the crossover works out.
Just a general note: I advise against the small 15W L-Pads such as these found at Parts Express. PE L-PAD
They are poorly made. I've had bad luck with any I've used.
Get the 50 watt version. You don't need it for the power, but they are much better constructed.